By Dr. Fayne Frey, Board Certified Dermatologist
Should You Exfoliate?
The short answer to the question, “Should you exfoliate?” is that I don’t recommend it. I don’t exfoliate myself. Why should I? Exfoliating the skin may remove some dirt and dead surface skin, but is it good for me? I have healthy skin and intend to keep it that way. The 15-20 surface layers of my skin maintain hydration, the skin’s most crucial function. Each cell, surrounded by lipids, or fats, makes me virtually waterproof.
For that reason, I can swim in the ocean for hours and nothing passes into or out of my skin. Each skin cell contains compounds that act as sponges, and draw water from the deeper skin layers up to the surface. Basically, my skin moisturizes itself – so does yours! Consider that some people never moisturize. My dad is one of them, yet his skin remains in place; it doesn’t chip or fall in pieces to the ground.
Exfoliation Side Effects
Getting back to exfoliation, why should I remove the very layers of skin my body requires to maintain adequate skin hydration? I need them. Yes, exfoliating removes some dirt, oil, and makeup from my skin, but so does a mild cleanser. And a scrub may remove dead surface cells, but again, so does a mild cleanser. Unfortunately, the exfoliant may also remove the important layers of skin that keep my skin hydrated.
While I like the way my skin feels to my touch after I exfoliate, little if any, scientific evidence exists to prove it’s actually good for me. I’m one of the lucky ones; I have fair skin that could likely tolerate a relaxing exfoliation treatment at my local spa. Those with darker complexions and/or sensitive skin may experience irritation and inflammation from the procedure. These people may experience a post-inflammatory pigmentation reaction or a darkening of the skin, a not-uncommon side effect.
So, Should You Exfoliate?
All that said, some people love exfoliation treatments and swear by the results. I get that – and understand we all need to make our own decisions. But in my practice, I don’t recommend exfoliation and it is not for me.
About the Author
Fayne Frey, M.D., is a board-certified clinical and surgical dermatologist practicing in West Nyack, New York, where she specializes in the diagnosis and treatment of skin cancer. She is a nationally recognized expert in the effectiveness and formulation of over-the-counter skincare products. Dr. Frey is the Founder of FryFace.com, an educational skincare information and product selection service website that clarifies and simplifies the overwhelming choice of effective, safe, and affordable products encountered in the skincare aisles. Dr. Frey is a fellow of both the American Academy of Dermatology and the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery.
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Why Dermatologists Are Cautious About Recommending Exfoliation
This section is an added note from the editor to further educate our readers. Below are some additional reasons dermatologists recommend you exercise caution when it comes to exfoliation.
Over-exfoliation:
Some people may be tempted to exfoliate their skin too frequently or use harsh exfoliants, which can strip away the protective barrier of the skin and lead to redness, dryness, and inflammation. It’s essential to find the right balance and avoid overdoing it.
Skin type sensitivity
Different skin types (dry, oily, sensitive, or combination) have varying levels of tolerance to exfoliation. Individuals with sensitive or acne-prone skin, for example, may need to use gentler exfoliants and exfoliate less often.
Existing skin conditions
People with certain skin conditions, such as eczema, rosacea, or active acne, may have compromised skin barriers. Exfoliating in these cases can exacerbate the condition and cause further irritation.
Sun sensitivity
Exfoliating can make the skin more sensitive to the sun’s harmful UV rays. It’s crucial to wear sunscreen daily, especially after exfoliating, to protect the skin from damage.
Individual differences
Everyone’s skin is unique, and what works for one person may not work for another. Dermatologists consider each patient’s specific skin type, concerns, and medical history when recommending exfoliation techniques.
If you enjoy exfoliating your face and think you should remember that dermatologists emphasize the importance of moderation. Too much of anything is not good!
NOTE: This article is not intended as medical advice. Consult your doctor with concerns or questions.
More articles from Dr. Fayne Frey
Is It Best to Wash Your Face Before, After, or In the Shower?
What is the Definition of “Clean Beauty”?
What Does “Microbiome-Friendly” Mean for Skin Care Products?
Making the Case for Inexpensive Skin Care Products (50plus-today.com)
originally posted 9.14.2020
updated 5.10.2023
Thanks for sharing!
I’m 27 and I don’t exfoliate either. I used to have dry skin – or I thought my skin was dry – but when I stopped (over)exfoliating, it seemed to find back to its natural balance. I just splash water in my face in the evening (I don’t wear makeup) and wake up with a moisturized, (if I may say so) slightly glowing face. Exfoliating is not for me either.